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If your heating system doesn't work efficiently, we are available to help 24/7. Call us at our toll free phone number:

866-625-9239

We repair the following brands:

Our Service areas includes All the Chicago

View the furnace or heating system efficiency and service tips below, which will help you to reduce your utility bill and prevent your appliances from needing future repairs. However, if you need to deal with electricity in order for your problem to be fixed, for your own safety we strongly suggest that you DON'T do it on your own. It can be costly and dangerous for your to do electrical work yourself, so please leave it to a professional who is trained and experienced with this type of issue. Call us today to make an heating service or repair appointment at:

866-625-9239

The severity of the local climate has a lot to do with how comfortable your home is, but a number of other factors also play essential roles. A well-insulated, fairly airtight structure is the first prerequimte. Properly sized and well-maintained heating, cooling, and ventilation systems are close seconds.
Comfort audit. If your home is less comfortable than you would like it, do a thorough assessment of the structure. Your local utility company may provide a free or low-cost energy audit (some utilities even use heat-sensitive infrared video scanners, which show how a home is losing, heat). If this service is not available, do your own audit by moving through your home and searching out all drafts, cold (or hot) surfaces, improper humidity, and stale air.

Drafts are caused by indoor air that loses its heat to windows and exterior walls; the colder and taller the surfaces, the faster the drafts move. When you sit near cold surfaces, you radiate heat to them; the colder the surface, the faster you radiate and the more uncomfortable you feel. Sitting beneath an annulated hot ceiling in July has the opposite effect; even if the air is cool, the ceiling will radiate heat and cause discomfort.

Remedies. Insulating your house and adding weather-stripping and storm windows or double-glazed sashes help warm or cool interior surfaces and cut down on drafts. If a home is too dry in winter and too humid in summer, the culprit may be excessive air leakage. Cutting down on leaks by caulking openings and taping ducts may increase wintertime indoor humidity sufficiently to eliminate the need for humidifiers. Finally, controlling ventilation generally improves indoor comfort.

CAUTION: If your home has combustion appliances—hot-water heaters, fireplaces, or heating systems fired by gas, oil, wood, or propane—they must be provided with adequate air for safe use. While most fairly airtight homes have sufficient air for this purpose, some do not. If you make your house more airtight, it may be necessary to pipe air directly to the room in which the appliance is located.

Keeping your family warm on an icy winter day or night is a high priority —it affects both comfort and health, especially in those who are elderly. If the heat goes out in the dead of winter, do all you can to keep the warm air inside and the cold air out? But before going to extreme lengths, make a few simple checks. Sometimes the heat goes off merely because a switch has been accidentally flipped off, the thermostat needs adjustment, or a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown.

1. First check the thermostat temperature and time settings. Push the temperature setting 8 to 10 degrees above room temperature-, the heat should come on within 5 minutes. Check the circuit breaker and fuse box. If a breaker has tripped, reset it. If a fuse has blown, replace it with one of the same amperage. If the breaker trips or the fuse burns out again, the system may have a short circuit; call a repairman. Follow the other checks described below. If the heat doesn't come on, call a repairman
If there is no heat: 1. Adjust thermostat. Make sure emergency switch on heating system or by cellar door is on. Check fuse or circuit breaker box; reset tripped breaker or replace blown fuse.
2. If heating system burns oil, check oil level. If tank has no gauge, dip a long clean stick into filler pipe, if possible; remove stick, and look for oil mark on it to check level of oil
3. If you have a warm-air system, turn off power and check fan belt. Reseal belt if it has slipped off shaft; replace it, if broken. If motor runs noisily, bearings may be worn; call a repairman.
4. Hot-water system may contain too much air. With pump running, open vent on each radiator or convector (some systems have single purge valve on boiler). When water spurts, close vent.

Checking a water heater

Cold water from a hot-water faucet may simply mean that the power or gas is off. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or burned-out fuse (p. 237), a pilot light that's out, or a valve that's not on at the gas meter or the heater. Also make sure that the heater is level; a tipped water heater won't function properly. If the heater still fails to do its job, try the remedies shown above.
If the hot water is discolored, turn off the power or gas supply, then drain the tank and refill it. If an electric heater leaks, turn off the power and tighten the mounting bolts for both the upper and lower heating elements. Replace any worn gaskets. Check all pipe connections and the drain-cock for leaks; tighten the connections if needed, but do not over tighten them, If water is coming from the pressure-relief valve, the valve is probably defective. Have it replaced. Never let even a "little" leak go-, have it fixed immediately.
Whether your water heater is electric or gas, if it still leaks after all connections have been tightened, replace it immediately or it may cause a major flood in your house. To help detect leaks, you can put a small battery-operated water alarm next to the heater. This gadget will sound a loud electronic alarm if its sensor gets wet.

On electric heater, if top thermostat shuts off power, push reset button once. If cutoff recurs, upper or lower thermostat or heating element is defective. Have it replaced.

On gas heater, if pilot light is off, relight it following detailed instructions printed on metal plate on heater. If you are unsure of how to proceed, call the gas company.

If pilot light still goes out, clean openings with a thin copper wire, and brush out air inlets at base of heater. If problem persists, replace thermocouple

Prolonging heater life.

Water healer tanks corrode and can rust out completely, causing a flood, in less than 10 years. However, every heater has an anode, a magnesium tube that attracts impurities and corrodes itself instead of the tank. Have anode replaced every 5 years. Most anodes are rigid, but flexible ones are available for heaters with less than 36 in. of space overhead.